What calendula-infused oil is
Calendula-infused oil is a carrier oil that has steeped with dried calendula flowers (often called pot marigold) until it takes on a golden color and a mild, slightly resinous scent. It is a staple in homemade salves, balms, lotions and soap, and calendula is one of the herbs that holds its color better than most in soap, which is part of why makers like it. For the wider picture, see our guide to herbs for soap making.
This recipe is for external use in cosmetics and soap. It is not intended for eating.
Ingredients and equipment
- Dried calendula flowers or petals
- A carrier oil such as olive, sunflower, sweet almond, jojoba, apricot kernel or grapeseed
- A clean, dry glass jar with a tight lid (a mason jar works)
- Cheesecloth, a fine-mesh strainer or a coffee filter
- Clean, dry dark glass bottles for storage
- A label and marker
A common starting point is to fill the jar around two thirds to three quarters full with dried flowers and cover them with oil, leaving the flowers fully submerged under about an inch of oil. Exact ratios vary between makers, so treat this as a guide.
Which part of calendula to use
The flower heads, and in particular the petals and the sticky, resinous base of the flower, are the part most herbalists use. Some suppliers sell whole dried flower heads and others sell loose petals; either can be used. Choose flowers from a reliable source and make sure they are properly dried. If you grow your own, harvest open flowers after the dew has dried and dry them thoroughly before infusing.
Cold infusion recipe step by step
- Dry everything. The flowers should be completely dry, and the jar and utensils too. Moisture is the main cause of mold in infused oils.
- Fill the jar. Add the dried calendula until the jar is about two thirds to three quarters full.
- Add oil. Pour in the carrier oil until the flowers are completely covered with a margin of oil above them.
- Release air bubbles. Stir gently with a dry chopstick or spoon handle.
- Seal and label. Add the date, flower and oil used.
- Infuse. Leave the jar in a warm spot out of harsh direct sun, or on a gently sunny windowsill, for about 4 to 6 weeks. Shake or swirl occasionally.
- Strain. Pour the oil through cheesecloth or a fine strainer, and press the flowers to get the oil out. The final bit can look cloudy, which is normal and will settle.
- Bottle. Let the oil settle, then decant into a clean, dry, dark bottle.
Quick heat infusion
If you need the oil sooner:
- Combine the dried flowers and oil in a heat-safe jar or in a slow cooker insert.
- Warm gently using a double boiler or slow cooker on its lowest setting. Keep the temperature low and avoid frying the petals.
- Hold at low heat for several hours, commonly cited as around 4 to 8 hours.
- Cool, strain and bottle as above.
Some makers feel slower infusions produce a richer oil, but the heat method is reliable for a fast result.
How long does it take
- Cold infusion: typically 4 to 6 weeks, with some makers leaving it for up to several months.
- Heat infusion: a few hours.
Check by smell and color: the oil should look golden and smell mildly herbal. If it smells sour, looks fuzzy or has water droplets, discard it.
Choosing a carrier oil
- Olive oil: easy to find, widely used, and common in soap.
- Sunflower oil: light and affordable.
- Sweet almond or apricot kernel: soft-feeling oils; if you share or sell products, be aware that nut-derived oils can be a concern for people with nut allergies, and label accordingly.
- Jojoba or grapeseed: often chosen for lighter skincare uses.
For soap, pick an oil already in your recipe so you can swap it in directly.
Storage and shelf life
Store in a clean, dry, dark bottle in a cool, dark place. Shelf life depends on the carrier oil, and guidance from different makers ranges from about 6 months to a year. Label with the date, use older oil first, and discard it if it smells rancid or off.
How to make soap with calendula
There are two simple ways to bring calendula into soap.
Use the infused oil. Replace part or all of one oil in your cold process recipe with calendula-infused oil. Because the infused oil is still just that carrier oil, enter it as the original oil in your lye calculator. For a first try, swap in a portion of the oils and see how the bar turns out.
Use dried petals. Whole or lightly crushed dried petals can be sprinkled on top of a poured loaf or stirred in lightly at trace for a bit of color and texture. Calendula petals are widely reported to keep their color better than many botanicals, though shades still change over time.
Working with lye requires protective gear and care. If you are new to it, learn the basics before you start, or use a melt and pour base and stir in a small amount of the oil instead (see melt and pour soap recipes with essential oils for the basic method). For more about infusing oils specifically for soaping, see infusing oil with herbs for soap.
What not to mix with calendula, and who should be careful
Calendula belongs to the daisy family (Asteraceae). People who are allergic to ragweed, daisies, marigolds or chrysanthemums can be sensitive to it, so patch test before using calendula products on skin and stop if irritation occurs.
As for what not to combine it with, there is no single list that applies to everyone. For cosmetic use, the practical cautions are:
- Do not mix fresh, wet flowers into oil, because moisture can spoil it.
- Avoid strongly scented or high-percentage essential oils if your skin is sensitive.
- If you are pregnant, nursing, taking medication, or have a skin condition, ask a healthcare professional before using herbal preparations, particularly internally.
Troubleshooting
- Oil looks pale: use more flowers next time or infuse for longer.
- Mold or fuzz: the flowers were not dry enough or were not submerged. Discard the batch.
- Cloudy oil: let it settle and decant. If it also smells off, throw it out.
- Faint scent: calendula is naturally mild, so do not expect a strong aroma.